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1 Warp Sateen
Cloth woven with the 5-end warp satin weave. The weaver would put four-fifths of the warp on the face, but this preponderance of warp is increased by weaving more ends than picks per inch, say 160 ends per inch of 60's warp, and 72 picks per inch of 40's weft. Many of these cloths are ornamented with good style jacquard weft figuring, and makes vary considerably from about 150 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's warp, 30's weft, to 110 ends and 68 picks per inch, 2/60's warp, 28's weft. -
2 Warp Ribs
Cloth in which the weft is thicker than the warp or in which two or more picks are put in the same shed so that they lie straight and cause the warp ends to bend around them, thus forming ribs in the cloth from selvedge to selvedge. In such cloths there are usually three or four times as many warp ends as picks per inch, so that the weft is completely covered. -
3 Weft-Faced Fabrics
Cloths that have a preponderance of weft on the face due to the weave, as in the case of weft-faced satins, or to having a greater number of picks per inch than warp ends as in the case of imperials, swansdowns, moleskin, beavcrtcen and like fabrics.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Weft-Faced Fabrics
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4 Warp-Printed Fabrics
In shadow cretonne the warp is printed prior to weaving, and the partly coloured threads are inter-woven with grey, bleached or very light-coloured wefts. This breaks up the solidity of the colour mass and tones down the whole colour effect in a manner that gives rise to the name " shadow cretonne." A shadow cretonne can be readily identified by abstracting a few picks of weft which will be found to be unprinted.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Warp-Printed Fabrics
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5 Warp Knitted Fabrics
Fabrics knitted on the warp loom. They include plain and fancy locknit, tricot and Vandyke or atlas. Locknit is the most popular by reason of its ladderproof property. These fabrics are closer knitted and stretchless than weft-knitted fabrics. They are used largely for underwear, sportswear, gloves, etc.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Warp Knitted Fabrics
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6 Skin Of The Swan
A very fine silk fabric in a close weave and fine counts. Manufactured and finished in a glossy style by French makers. Made 8-shaft weave as illustrated, the weft crosses two ends and bright silk is used. The weft showing on the surface gives the crepe effect. An inferior Peau de Cygne is made with the 5-shaft warp satin weave with the weft floating over one end only at each intersection. The cloth made with this weave is really Messaline.
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7 Design, Draft And Lifting Plan
DESIGN, DRAFT and LIFTING PLANThese three weaving terms are related to each other. Design refers to the manner in which the warp threads interweave with the weft. Draft is a term describing the manner in which the warp threads are drawn through the heald eyes. The lifting plan is the order in which the healds are lifted. In a tappet loom it indicates the manner in which the healds are tied to the tappet treadles. In the illustration A shows the design of a 4-shaft twill, B shows the draft on four heald staves, and C shows the lifting plan
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Design, Draft And Lifting Plan
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8 Shadow Stripes And Checks
A cloth made with stripes by using warp yarns of different twists; one stripe has left-hand and the next right-hand twisted yarn. When dyed a shadowy effect is produced. The left-hand twisted yarn is usually tinted in sizing with a loose colour to enable the operatives to distinguish it from the other twist. " Shadow Fabrics " is the name given to this type of fabric in the woollen trade. They are made in all weights and in checks as well as stripes. Suiting fabrics are very popular in browns, blues, greys and blacks. Fine worsted yarns are general. Checks are also made with right- and reverse-twist yarns in the weft.
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Shadow Stripes And Checks
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9 Extra Weft Figuring
A method of adding ornament to a fabric. In this case, as in extra warp figuring, removal of the extra figuring threads leaves a complete woven structure. Extra weft may interweave with all the fabric ground threads, or only in parts, in which case the floating portions may be removed by cropping. There may be one, two or more extra wefts used and only one warp.
Dictionary of the English textile terms > Extra Weft Figuring
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10 Extra Warp Figuring
In this method of producing fancy fabrics, there are two or more series of warp threads and only one weft. This method has many advantages over extra weft figuring, viz., greater production, any number of colours can be used, a single shuttle only is necessary. A disadvantage of the system is that in most cases one or more extra warp beams are required.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Extra Warp Figuring
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11 Cretonnes, Warp Printed
CRETONNES, WARP PRINTEDPlain weave cotton fabrics woven from yarn printed in the warp. Thick weft is used which gives a " chine " effect. A standard quality is 72 ends and 28 picks per inch, 2/40's T., 2/10's W. Made in 36-in., 40-m. and 52-m. widths. These fabrics are reversible as the pattern shows on both sides. Also known as " Shadow Cretonnes."Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cretonnes, Warp Printed
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12 Gaze
The French term for gauze, and there are many fabrics made in France to which this name is given. The most common are as follows: - Gaze a Bluter - Made in cotton or silk and used for sifting purposes. It is a plain gauze. Gaze Brilliantine - A high-class dress leno cloth made from all silk yams. Gaze an Fuseau - See Grille. Gaze Barege - Very light dress goods, silk warp, wool weft, or of all wool, often printed. Gaze Ceres - A fabric for making women's hats, silk warp and split straw weft. Leno weave. Seldom used today. Gaze Cristal - Very light French dress goods, silk warp, having small bright and dull spots alternating on the face. Gaze Damassee - A gauze fabric of silk warp and weft in which the design is produced with two wefts, either different colours or different material. Gaze Faconnee - A French gauze with brocade design woven one ground thread and one figuring thread alternately. Gaze Paconnee Broche - French gauze fabric, plain gauze, on which is hand embroidered various designs. Gaze Faconnee Raye - French gauze with warp stripes. Gaze de Fil - A French-made gauze, flax yarns, with a light starch finish, usually striped. Gaze d'ltalie - A French gauze, made of silk yams. Gaze de Paris - A French light-weight, silk dress fabric, made of organzine warp and trame weft. Gaze de Voilette - A French production made from all-silk yams in fine reeds and closely picked. A pure, very fine and transparent gauze. Gaze Filoche - A French all-silk leno fabric. Gaze Fond Filoche - An all-silk French gauze, organzine warp, grege weft, with bars across the weft formed by groups of picks. Gaze Lisse - A leno cloth, very light weight, made in France from undyed silk yams. Gaze Marabout - A very light, silk French gauze. Also a pile fabric made with very short plush stripes, alternating in three colours, over a thin gauze ground. Gaze Milanaise - A French light-weight dress fabric with equal number of ends and picks per inch. Made of " Milanaise " yarn. Gaze Ondee - A French very light dress cloth or trimming fabric made of organzine warp and weft on " ondee " silk. Gaze Perron - A French leno fabric, all silk, used for bordering on dresses. Gaze Platree - A striped French gauze, made of yellow silk and given a light starch finish. Gaze Tour Anglais - The French term for leno. -
13 Gaberdine
This term was known in the 16th century, when in the Merchant of Venice Shylock reminds Antonio that he " spat upon his Jewish gabardine," which indicates rather " a long cassock " than a cloak or mantle. Blount writes: "what is a gabardine"? "a rough Irish mantle," " a horseman's cloak," or " a long cassock." Palsgrave has " mantyll, a gabardine." Also known as Gallebardine (Italian) ———————— The gaberdine is a fabric having a whipcord effect made from worsted warp and cotton weft. It is usually woven on 11 staves as at A, in a dobby loom with a fine reed. The warp yarns are good quality botany worsted and well spun to give uniformity of surface in the finished cloth. The weft is twofold good quality cotton. Gaberdines are usually set with about twice as many ends as picks per inch. The following particulars give three typical cloths: -
as A. Set 63-in. in the loom to finish 56/7-in.
Cotton gaberdines are made in great quantities, 54-in. or wider, with super qualities of two-fold warp and weft. Some of the lower qualities have single yarns or single weft only. The 11-shaft warp face weave is mostly used, but some are made with the 3 X 1 warp twill An example of the better quality is 54-in. finished, 90 yard., 140 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's T., 2/40's W. A popular quality of cotton gaberdine is made 54-in. finished, 90 yards, 172 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's T., and 2/80's combed and gassed Sakel cotton. A lower variety is made 54-in. finished 90 yards, 162-ends per inch 2/60's Egyptian warp and 86 picks per inch of 24's super American weft. Both the worsted and cotton varieties are used for waterproofs and coatings. The dress goods styles are made 54-in. finished, 100 ends and 62 picks per inch 2/50's botany warp, 36's botany weft.
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14 Bengaline
A silk fabric with cords across the piece as in a poplin. The cords are of wool, cotton or silk. If all silk, known as Bengaline de Soie. A cotton bengaline is made of all cotton, with a 2/60's warp and 6's or 8's weft. A 32's fine weft is used as well. Mercerised finish (picking is one coarse, one fine). The weave is plain, and coarse yarn is used for ribs, and space between each rib has a finer weft. The real cloth has a silk warp and worsted weft - 13/15 denier to 20/22 denier warp, 2/40's worsted for fine picks, with a thick cabled worsted yarn for cords. They are sometimes figured, as seen in the illustration, which is woven with a plain cord ground. The yarns are all botany worsted, viz., 2/76's-warp and 56's weft, 45-in. cloth from 50-in. warp. The variety known as Bengaline Marquise has a spun silk warp and worsted weft
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15 Crepes
These are made in many widths and qualities, and in cotton, wool, rayon, silk and combinations of these, such as cotton warp and rayon weft, rayon warp and silk weft, etc. In crepes dependent solely on the contractile power of highly twisted yarns for producing a wrinkled pebble or figure effect, the hard-twisted warps and wefts are used in various ways, as follows: - In each case R= right twist; L=left or reverse twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft all one twist. Warp 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L. Warp all one twist. Weft 2 R, 2 L alternately. Warp 1 R, 1 L, alternately. Weft 2 R, 2 L, alternately. Other arrangements of warp and weft are also used. -
16 Melton
A heavy smooth cloth, made all wool or from cotton warp and wool weft. Woven 76-in. to So-in, to finish 50-in. to 56-in. wide, and about 24-oz. per yard. The cloth is raised and cropped and very heavily milled. The 2 & 2 twill is used, especially in the all-wool styles. Meltons, kerseys and tweeds for coatings and uniforms are very similar in appearance when finished. Fig. A gives a popular design on 4-shafts and 8 picks, made 82-in. wide to finish when milled and dyed 58-in. wide, wool yarns 28 yards per dram warp and 22 yards weft. The warp is openband (twist to the left) and the weft crossband (twist to the right) and soft spun. Reed 4 in a dent 52-ends per inch, 80 picks per inch, weight 32-oz. per yard. Design B gives a cheap style of Melton in which cotton warp and mungo weft is used. Made 80-in. to finish 54-in., 52 ends and 52 picks per inch, 2/40's Egyptian cotton warp, 7 yards per dram mungo weft. This cloth costs about 60 per cent less than the above.
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17 Taffeta
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
18 Taffety
TAFFETA, TAFFETY(Taffetas), French-Silk fabric known in England as early as the 14th century and probably manufactured in Brittany, where it was called Taftas. It was used for the lining of rich mantles. It was much used in the 16th century for various articles of dress. The word taffeta is now used to describe various cloths in the plain weave. One is closely woven all-silk fabric in which the number of ends per inch is about the same as the picks, the warp and weft are of the same count. Silk taffeta as made in France is plain weave with organzine silk warp and tram weft, 180 to 200 ends and 72 to 100 picks per inch, widths 27-in., 36-in. and 40-in. There is a fair weight of loading on these cloths. When made with weft differing in colour from the warp the cloth is known as " Taffetas Glace." Bradford produces a wool taffeta much used for better-class shirts. A large trade is done in cotton taffeta 36-in. to 40-in. wide, 60 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/20's weft. This cloth is both bleached and dyed. A lower cotton taffeta is made with 72 ends and 96 picks per inch, 42's warp, 28's weft, dyed in all colours. -
19 Amazon
A dress fabric woven from worsted yarns for warp and woollen for weft, either with the 2 X 1 warp twill or 5-end satin weave. The sett in the warp is much closer than in weft. The finish is a raised one. The illustration shows the 5-end satin design. One quality is made 40's worsted warp, 32's woollen weft, 80 X 40, per inch. Also made with wool warp and worsted weft in 5-end satin weave with twill running to the left. About 80 X 48, 2/60's warp, 40's worsted weft, from 45 to 56-in. The finish is nap raised and dress-face. Shrinkage about 12 per cent
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20 Mummy Cloth
A fabric resembling crepe, composed of silk warp and wool weft in the best qualities, with cotton warp in lower grades, and used as mourning in black because of its lustreless surface. Fine closely woven plain linen fabric used in ancient Egypt for wrapping mummies. The best examples have two-fold warp and single weft and two or three times as many warp ends as picks. One example has 140 ends and 64 picks per inch, 100's linen warp and weft. One wrapping cloth from a mummy contained 540 threads of warp per inch. Unbleached, plain woven, heavy linen or cotton fabrics, used as a ground cloth for embroidery is known as mummy. A crinkled lustreless black cloth made with cotton warp and wool weft is called momie cloth.
См. также в других словарях:
warp and woof — noun a) The threads in a woven fabric, comprised of the warp (threads running lengthwise) and woof (threads running crosswise) to create a the texture of the fabric. The warp and woof of our lives, sensible, sensitive, a veritable 911, she was… … Wiktionary
Warp — Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp beam — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp fabric — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp knitting — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp lace — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp net — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Warp-net frame — Warp Warp, n. [AS. wearp; akin to Icel. varp a casting, throwing, Sw. varp the draught of a net, Dan. varp a towline, OHG. warf warp, G. werft. See {Warp}, v.] [1913 Webster] 1. (Weaving) The threads which are extended lengthwise in the loom, and … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
warp — [wôrp] n. [ME < OE wearp < base of weorpan, to throw, akin to Ger werfen < IE * werb < base * wer , to turn, bend > WORM] 1. a) a distortion, as a twist or bend, in wood or in an object made of wood, caused by contraction in drying … English World dictionary
warp — ► VERB 1) make or become bent or twisted, typically from the action of heat or damp. 2) make abnormal; distort. 3) move (a ship) along by hauling on a rope attached to a stationary object ashore. ► NOUN 1) a distortion or twist in shape. 2) the… … English terms dictionary
